🍪 The cookie spreading crisis (solved)

6/30/25

Good morning. Did you know that the difference between perfect cookies and flat ones often comes down to just a few simple techniques?

Even when you're baking with gluten-free flour, egg substitutes, or dairy-free alternatives, you can still achieve those beautifully shaped cookies you're craving! Whether you're navigating food allergies or making inclusive treats for your family, we've got the science-backed solutions you need.

In today's newsletter:

  • Preventing Cookie Spread: Understanding different techniques that help prevent cookie spreading.
  • Science Corner: The different stages of cookies being baked and what role ingredients play in this journey.
  • Weekly Crossword

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  • Why your bakes turn out dry, dense, or gritty
  • Which swaps ruin recipes (and what to use instead)
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King Arthur's test kitchen put the hype to the test and developed their own perfected version that proves sometimes the internet's wildest baking trends are actually worth the effort.

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This Week's Featured Topic:
Why Your Cookies Spread Into Pancakes: A Deep Dive for Dietary-Conscious Bakers


We've all been there. You follow a recipe, pop your cookie dough into the oven with high hopes, and fifteen minutes later you're staring at what looks more like crispy crepe disasters than the plump, perfectly shaped cookies you envisioned. If this sounds familiar, you're not alone—and if you're baking with alternative ingredients due to dietary restrictions, you might be dealing with this frustration more often than most.

Here's the good news: cookie spreading isn't some mysterious baking curse. There's real science behind what makes cookies behave the way they do, and once you understand it, you can take control and get the results you want every time.

The Quick Fixes That Work 90% of the Time

Before we dive deep into the science, let's start with the solutions that will solve most spreading problems right away. These work whether you're using traditional ingredients or navigating around dietary restrictions:

Use a kitchen scale for your flour. This single change will solve about half of all cookie spreading issues. When you scoop flour with a measuring cup, you can end up with 50% more flour than the recipe intended. That extra flour completely throws off the balance of wet to dry ingredients. Flour should weigh about 125 grams (4.4 oz) per cup. If you don't have a scale, fluff your flour with a spoon, then spoon it gently into your measuring cup and level it with a knife—never scoop directly from the bag.

Chill your cookie dough for at least 30 minutes. Even if the recipe doesn't call for it, this step gives the flour time to hydrate and helps firm up the fats in your dough. For alternative ingredients like coconut oil or vegan butter, this is even more crucial since they often have different melting points than regular butter.

Make sure your baking sheets are completely cool before dropping more dough on them. Hot pans cause butter (or butter alternatives) to melt immediately on contact, leading to instant spreading before the cookies even hit the oven.

Understanding Your Ingredients

When you're working with dietary restrictions, understanding how each ingredient behaves becomes even more important. Traditional cookie recipes rely on specific interactions between butter, eggs, and wheat flour, but when you're substituting these ingredients, you need to know what each one actually does.

How Fat Factors In

Traditional butter contains about 80% fat and 20% water. When it's at the right temperature (around 70-72°F), it creates the perfect structure for cookies that hold their shape while baking. But many of us are working with alternatives:

Coconut oil behaves differently depending on temperature. At room temperature, it's often softer than butter, which can lead to more spreading. The solution? Chill your dough longer, or use refined coconut oil, which tends to be more stable.

Vegan butter alternatives vary widely in their fat and water content. Earth Balance Buttery Sticks and Country Crock Plant Butter have been tested extensively and perform closest to traditional butter. Some vegan butters actually create cookies that spread less than traditional butter, a pleasant surprise for many bakers.

Dairy-free margarine can work well, but check the fat content. Lower-fat versions will cause more spreading because they contain more water.

How Flour Fits In To The Picture

All-purpose flour provides structure through gluten formation, but gluten-free alternatives work differently. Most gluten-free flour blends rely on xanthan gum or other binding agents to mimic gluten's properties. The key is understanding that these alternatives often need:

  • More binding support. Sometimes an extra tablespoon of flour helps prevent spreading.
  • Different hydration times. Gluten-free flours often need longer to absorb moisture fully.
  • Consistent brands. Different gluten-free flour blends have varying protein contents and binding agents. Stick with what works for you.

The Egg Substitute Challenge

Eggs serve multiple functions in cookies: they bind ingredients, add moisture, and provide structure. When you're replacing them, you need to consider what job the egg was doing in the original recipe.

Flax eggs (1 tablespoon ground flaxseed + 3 tablespoons water) provide excellent binding properties and work well in most cookie recipes. They're particularly good for cookies where you want a slightly denser, chewier texture.

Aquafaba (the liquid from canned chickpeas) can be trickier. When used straight from the can, it sometimes has too much water content, leading to excessive spreading. The consistency varies between brands, which makes it less predictable. If you're using aquafaba, try reducing it by about one-third first, or combine it with flaxseed meal for better binding (a technique some bakers call "flaxafaba").

Commercial egg replacers typically work well for preventing spreading since they're formulated to mimic egg behavior, but read the instructions carefully, as some require different liquid ratios.

The Science of What Happens in Your Oven

Understanding what actually happens to your cookies in the oven helps you troubleshoot problems before they occur. Cookies go through several distinct phases:

The melt phase: As soon as cookies hit the heat, fats begin to melt and the dough starts to relax and spread outward. This is why starting with properly chilled dough and cool baking sheets matters so much.

The steam phase: Water in the dough (from eggs, milk, or alternatives) turns to steam, creating lift and helping cookies rise slightly.

The setting phase: Proteins and starches begin to set, locking in the cookie's final shape. This is why the temperature of your oven matters—too low, and cookies spread too much before setting; too high, and they set before spreading enough.

The browning phase: Sugars caramelize and proteins undergo Maillard reactions, creating flavor and color.

For cookies made with alternative ingredients, this process can happen at different rates. Coconut oil melts at a lower temperature than butter, so those cookies might spread more in the initial phase. Gluten-free flours might set differently than wheat flour. Egg substitutes might not provide the same structural support during the steam phase.

Temperature Control Is Everything

Your oven temperature affects spreading more than you might realize. Most home ovens run 15-25 degrees off from what the dial says, and that difference is enough to turn perfect cookies into pancakes.

Too low of a temperature means cookies spread too much before the structure sets. The butter melts and the dough relaxes, but there's not enough heat to quickly firm up the proteins and starches that give cookies their shape.

Too high of a temperature can cause the outside to set too quickly while the inside is still spreading, leading to uneven, oddly shaped cookies.

Invest in an oven thermometer—it's one of the best tools for consistent baking results. If your oven runs hot, lower the temperature accordingly. If it runs cool, increase it and watch your cookies carefully.

Your Baking Sheet Matters More Than You Think

The pan you use affects how cookies spread, especially when working with alternative ingredients. Dark metal sheets absorb more heat and can cause bottoms to cook too quickly. Light-colored aluminum sheets provide more even heating.

How you line your pans makes a significant difference too. Parchment paper provides the most consistent results and moderate spreading. Silicone baking mats actually grip the bottom of cookie dough and prevent excessive spreading, making them excellent for alternative ingredient cookies that tend to spread more. Aluminum foil causes the most spreading and should be avoided if you're fighting pancake cookies.

Never grease your pans unless the recipe specifically calls for it. The extra fat causes additional spreading, which is the last thing you want when you're already dealing with the challenges of alternative ingredients.

Special Considerations for Common Restrictions

Gluten-free baking: Your cookies may need slightly more flour or binding agents. Chill dough for at least an hour rather than 30 minutes. Consider adding an extra tablespoon of flour if cookies consistently spread too much.

Egg-free baking: Flax eggs provide the most reliable binding. If using aquafaba, reduce it by cooking it down to concentrate the proteins, or use less liquid elsewhere in the recipe to compensate.

Dairy-free baking: Choose your butter substitute carefully. Stick with brands that have been tested in baking (Earth Balance and Country Crock Plant Butter are reliable). Chill dough longer since many dairy-free fats are softer at room temperature.

Combination restrictions: When you're avoiding multiple ingredients, the margin for error gets smaller. Measure precisely, chill dough thoroughly, and don't be afraid to add a bit more flour if your first test batch spreads too much.

The Bottom Line

Cookie spreading isn't a mystery—it's science. When you understand why cookies behave the way they do, you can adjust your technique and ingredients to get the results you want. Whether you're using traditional ingredients or navigating around dietary restrictions, the same principles apply: measure accurately, control temperature, and give your ingredients time to work together.

The most important thing to remember is that alternative ingredients often require slight adjustments to technique, not just ingredient swaps. Don't get discouraged if your first batch with a new flour or egg substitute doesn't turn out perfectly. Take notes on what happened, make small adjustments, and try again.

With a little understanding of the science and some practice with your specific ingredients, you'll be making perfectly shaped, delicious cookies that no one would ever guess accommodate dietary restrictions. After all, good cookies are good cookies, regardless of what goes into making them

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BakingSubs

Hi! Malik & Maddy from BakingSubs here. There's nothing worse than getting ready to bake something new, and finding out you're missing a key ingredient. What do you do? Baking isn't like cooking where you can swap things easily, it's a science. In our newsletter, we provide easy to understand baking substitutions for your recipes, so you can avoid mistakes, and finally bake with confidence.